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Bianca Saunders: a leading woman in menswear fashion
Interview & Words Jason Owusu
“It means a lot to me, right now being a woman in menswear...it’s such a rarity in a male-led industry...I want to prove that women can do anything within [fashion]”. Bianca Saunders is consistent in proving that point. At only 27, her eponymous menswear line has become a highly anticipated, main attraction at London Fashion Week, as one to watch season after season. Her designs & collections - full of cuts, finishes, textures and silhouettes that challenge the norms of men’s fashion - have landed her notable recognition in the Forbes 30 under 30 list, plus, she has a masters’ in fashion from the Royal College of Art, and a film installation in Selfridges already in the bag. Late last year, Bianca’s short film “The Pedestrian” featured in GUCCIFest. Her multi-disciplinary approach to fashion meant she was hands-on with not only the collection, but the film direction and story itself.
Like many a success story, Bianca’s starts with one unforgettable influence who connected the dots and saw the potential she was yet to realise. “Back when I was doing my BA, I had a really good tutor... [who saw that] my research and sources were always menswear-oriented, [especially] based around my family, looking at their style and being influenced by that. [He said] ‘You should try menswear for your final collection’”. As intrigued as Bianca was at the time, she was hesitant. Her final collection showcase and deadlines were fast approaching but, her calling to venture into menswear - and succeed at it - had seemingly already been written. “I found that it was easier to find my personal style within [men’s] design, and easier to have a bit more of an aesthetic that was individual to me”.
Bianca’s recent AW21 presentation at London Fashion Week’s virtual instalment, is testament to what she does best. The collection titled “Superimposed” - inspired by sculpture and a wide range of artistry - was presented with a short film that explored concepts of ‘creativity and sexiness in both the surreal and real world’. Saunders methodically applies details to her pieces that push the envelope for what menswear should be and give life and layers to design. Take for example, her use of alterations to accentuate a slim looking waistline, padding & “tucks” for broadened shoulders, or A-line shapes, layered creases for added texture, pleats and asymmetric necklines. All are made to leave a lasting impression. With this impeccable variety of offerings, Bianca is making known that the typical “one image” of menswear is “frustrating” and dated. Bianca’s designs are well-thought out pieces for the new man...or men. She is known to focus on how her clothes will look and move on different types of men. After all, this reflects her reality; “I have a wide variety of [male] friends, [and we have] conversations about black men and masculinity...challenging masculinity ideals became something I was interested in and something I still am interested into this day.”
One compliment that rings true when Bianca’s industry peers describe her work is her ability to develop and expand her own design traditions. She stays true to her fashion DNA, whilst always making sure to take it up a notch at every given opportunity. There’s a clear self-awareness and self-development aspect to her creative approach that is admirable. Bianca is only competing with herself. “I want to be known as a designer that really looks at my work as a practice, rather than just a concept-within-a-theme. I want people to see the design development. Being known as a great designer is the number one goal for me...I want people to remember the design work and how I’ve pushed things forward and transformed menswear or what you think menswear is and creating an open scale of it. Each collection has kind of done that...and menswear still has room to develop”
Bianca doesn’t take her role as a trailblazer lightly, and the naysayers only add fuel to the fire. “Someone once said ‘women can’t design menswear’... and yet seeing men design for women is commonplace. Women are also the main ones buying [fashion] all the time!”
It’s a no-brainer that fashion - like most industries - has been affected by the current cycles of lockdowns and quarantines. The normal sourcing, production and supply chain were affected, with a limit on exports and imports, a clampdown on the in-person retail experience and all things fashion being halted. Designers have had to dig deep to pivot and innovate with the times.
“It’s been the most challenging period...Covid-19, Brexit, not being able to physically present and celebrate. Fashion is about celebrating...launches, fashion shows…” However, Saunders sees the upside. Creativity and genuine appreciation for designs are on the up. “It’s brought out the real fashion heads within the industry, because you have to love it, crave it to still have [a desire for fashion in times like these]. People have realized they don’t want to wear lounge pants every day, they want to look good, and part of looking good is appreciating the items you’re wearing and appreciating the pieces that you’re buying into…those parts are really important to me.”
As Bianca paves the way, she hopes for more diversity and variety - even in black fashion - to continue on in its recent growth. “I think it’s really important right now too...like the last fashion week...AW21, it was amazing to see so many black designers doing their thing and every single one of them [being] really individual, creating such a variation of what black fashion means to people; we’re all different. Diversity has become very apparent. All the black people I’ve seen grow within the industry, are pushing the industry forward, from photography to hair. Though there still aren’t many black designers or even hair stylists...the industry is really pushing for change right now.” Bianca Saunders is very much part of that push. It’s become intrinsic to her creative work, to always progress.