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Redefining ‘Nude’:
Adetola Hassan
Interview Jennifer Engmann
Words Nimi Patel
Adetola Hassan, MBE, is the founder of Nubian Skin, a pioneering lingerie and hosiery brand renowned for its diverse, custom-dyed collection of underwear essentials for women of colour. From Broadway backing dancers, to providing the underpinnings for Beyoncé’s Formation Tour, the brand has garnered much attention and set the standard for inclusivity. WOTC sat down with Ade to talk about trials, empowerment, and how fashion can be used as a positive force for change.
Jennifer: How did you begin Nubian Skin, and what was the process?
Ade: I’d been thinking about starting a business for a while. I love fashion and I initially wanted to go into accessories but then something just clicked and I thought, I can never find a nude bra that matches my skin tone. I did some research and was convinced that somebody had already thought of the idea, but I couldn’t find anything. None of the retailers had considered it. From that point, I said to myself, I need to do this. I was very naïve though. I didn’t have a background in fashion, nor did I have any contacts, but I had an idea that deserved some attention because of the positive impact it could have on women of colour.
Jennifer: What was the reception like when you first launched Nubian Skin, both within the industry and, the public?
Ade: I remember the feeling in 2014 when I posted a picture on Instagram from our first photoshoot and suddenly it went viral. We went from 15, to 20,000 followers in just four weeks and it kept growing. Then, major publications like Marie Claire and Teen Vogue started to show interest. I truly believe the image resonated so much with individuals, especially Black women, in a way that I could have never imagined. I remember when I picked the models, I chose women that connected to me and thought, that could be me, that could be my sister, or my friend. I had nothing, no website, no money, no contacts, but the support and amplified voice of Black women specifically on social media made the brand blow up – lots of people thought that I had a major PR machine behind me! They helped take us mainstream in such an organic and authentic way. The reception from the public was phenomenal.
I was still finding my place in the industry. Some buyers thought the brand was cool, but didn’t want to invest in it, but others like Nordstrom and ASOS were very forward-thinking and knew it was needed. Large retailers eventually started buying our products because they could see it was making a buzz and saw it as a ‘trend’.
Jennifer: Your background wasn’t originally fashion. What was it like coming from finance to the fashion industry?
Ade: I did private equity, fundraising and investment banking. It was very fast-paced and there were lots of long hours, but I enjoyed it. Fashion is a completely different world. In finance, they say everything should have been done yesterday so when I started the brand, I thought, I’ll get this done in three months, but it took a year and a half just to develop the colours. I had to learn to work at a completely different pace. It was a very big change and something I'm still learning about to be honest.
Jennifer: How did you choose and select the different shades and styles?
Ade: I couldn't pick colours because they didn't exist. The fabric manufacturers didn't make different tones of brown, so I had to create four custom colours. Most companies stock a ‘fashion brown’, like ‘chocolate’. I visited makeup counters and matched them to Pantones. I made some tweaks, adding more yellow, or more red and tested them against myself, my siblings and friends until I got four colours that I was happy with – it was a very long, lengthy process and initially harder than creating the actual style. The first round of products were just basic shapes that the manufacturer already had. As we progressed, I worked directly with my product developer and manufacturer to create different silhouettes, so now it's a more refined process.
“Our whole purpose is serving multiple skin tones. We will always continue to do that. It's not a trend for us, it's in our DNA”
Jennifer: Why did you think it was important for blackened branches to be in the undergarment industry?
Ade: Well, I personally needed and wanted the product. Nobody was going to give it to me, so I just had to make it. I just felt like there was no reason why I shouldn’t be catered for.
Jennifer: You mentioned that other brands are now trying to be more inclusive. Marks and Spencers recently caught social media attention with their new line. Do you think there is now a real change and more inclusion in the industry?
Ade: The market has definitely started to become more inclusive, especially with the Black Lives Matter movement - a lot of retailers had to face their own biases. From a consumer’s perspective, it’s great to see lots of different brands being inclusive, but within the industry we noticed our entire range was being sent to the head offices of major retailers, like Marks and Spencers which was a bit strange. I felt as though they had the opportunity to champion and show their admiration for our brand, but it’s common for products to be ripped off. Overall, I think it's brilliant for the consumer to have choice. Many brands have found themselves caught on the back foot because they haven't been as proactive so they're playing catch up.
Jennifer: What would you say is the hardest and most rewarding part about creating Nubian Skin?
Ade: I think the hardest part is the limited access to resources, and managing an independent brand because it's costly. Our production runs small, so we don't have the scale or muscle power to push on prices. We're still being compared to brands that can make things super cheap so it’s difficult having to compete with them on price. But one of the most rewarding things is just knowing how much of a difference we’ve made, despite being small. It’s incredible, especially now seeing large brands follow suit. The narrative changed when we started, so that's something that's truly amazing.
Jennifer: What would you say is your biggest inspiration?
Ade: My mother is an inspiration and icon for me. She’s also an entrepreneur so I've always wanted to emulate her in some way. Also, Eunice Johnson, who started Fashion Fair Cosmetics in the seventies. She was frustrated by the lack of make-up shades for women of colour and created a whole brand when there was a need for it.
Jennifer: What advice would you give to someone that wanted to make a career change, and go into something like fashion?
Ade: Everybody must acknowledge their individual situation. Make sure you can save, pay your rent and take care of yourself at a basic level. Once you figure out what you want to explore, start doing things alongside your job and make plans before you make it your main focus. We have so many resources now, especially with social media, so build a community and test your product or service. Research the area and make sure you understand what you're getting yourself into, and then just start. It doesn’t have to be in a massive way, but just begin. It might take a year, or ten, but persevere and build on it. I think it's really important to explore.
Jennifer: More brands are now increasing inclusivity, but you were the first to redefine ‘nude’. What do you envision for the future of Nubian Skin?
Ade: I think the brand itself is just very, very strong. I can only hope we continue to get bigger, stronger and more established, because the ethos is so important to me. While I think increasing inclusivity is amazing, so many times I've seen certain brands start something and then sort of leave it. Our whole purpose is serving multiple skin tones with classic styles. We will always continue to do that. It's not a trend for us, it's in our DNA.
Jennifer: You've been awarded an MBE. How did it feel to get recognition for your impact on the fashion industry?
Ade: To be honest, I still haven’t fully processed it. It was such a surprise - I still don't know who nominated me! I just felt so overwhelmed and grateful. Fashion wasn't my background, I started the brand because I felt very strongly about the need for nude-toned options that matched darker skin. Being recognised for doing something positive for an entire industry that was completely new to me was just indescribable. Whenever I think about it, I'm just overcome with gratitude and pride.
“The narrative changed when we started..”
Jennifer. Definitely. Your story is so inspiring for young women and men of colour because it's hard for us to imagine how far we could get in the fashion industry without thinking that we need certain connections or certain backgrounds. One thing I always hear is, if you see a problem, and you're able to solve it, that's where success really lies. Finally, as this is our fashion issue, I just wanted to know what fashion means to you?
Ade: I love fashion. It's a way to express yourself and helps you get in a positive mindset. So for me, fashion is freedom, expression and fun.
