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Mariya Dykalo
Interview Phadria Prendergast
Mariya Dykalo
1. You originally began as an intern at Aspinal of London, talk us through this journey. Did you ever think you would become one of the faces?
When I first joined Aspinal in 2006 as an intern, there were only two people in design which meant the role was extremely broad. I was designing as well as being very involved with the factories for quality assurance. At this time, Aspinal was well established as a stationery and leather accessories brand, but I was passionate about introducing handbags. I knew this was a huge opportunity for the brand. Luckily, I had been trained in pattern making throughout university and was very confident in design and apparel pattern making. I believe this approach helped me design Aspinal’s first handbag collection. I created the initial prototype using a paper pattern. I sketched these to the real size making a pattern for every compartment to create the first handbag out of paper – a paper mock-up, which I sent to the factory. Amazingly the first handbag prototype they sent back arrived perfect and eventually launched to customers as the Paris bag. This gave me more confidence to experiment and create more handbag designs. The third bag I designed for Aspinal was the Mayfair, which has transformed throughout the years to become our most iconic and bestselling bags – this is one of my greatest professional achievements.
From my role as an intern, I grew to designer, then to head of design. During this time our company strategy evolved, and we felt it was important to have a face of the brand who customers could connect to - to know who was behind designing the bags. In 2014, I was promoted to Creative Director, and we began on a whole new journey. Looking back on this, it has been a whirlwind how the brand has grown. I wasn’t thinking at the time, but it was all happening organically. It’s been an incredible and exciting dream come true.
2. What advice would you give to interns in the fashion industry?
If you want to be a designer, my advice is to make sure you first learn how to sketch. This is so important as it enables you to input your vision onto paper and communicate your ideas to the sample maker and your team, to eventually transform your vision into a real product. For the fashion industry generally, I’d say to educate yourself not only academically, but of the roles within the industry. This way you will be able to show true passion when you figure out exactly which area of the industry it is you want to pursue your career in. Education is so important; it allows you to find what you truly love to do. In life it doesn’t matter what role you do, you have to work hard and there will be good days and bad days, but if you love what you do, this will get you through - and of course, never give up.
3. There have been many changes to the industry in the past month alone, what do you believe the fashion industry will look like in the next 5 years?
In 5 years, I think we will all be taking a more sustainable approach to fashion business. I know brands are planning and actioning their strategies now, in 5 years imagine the progress we will have made. The innovation in materials and processes will be incredible. I also think our approach as consumers will change, moving away from the fast-moving ‘now’ culture to buying to last, focusing on quality and craftsmanship in our purchases. We also may move towards a more seasonless collection, designing products that transition throughout with consumers throughout the seasons.
Mariya Dykalo
4. What do you think the future of retail looks like - especially for those aspiring to have a physical retail space?
I think retail will become more experience-led, brands will make their stores a destination that provides a memorable experience for consumers, offering that extra level of service. A lot of Aspinal’s retail staff have been with the brand since the very beginning meaning they have an incredible and completely invaluable relationship with our customers. Without a physical retail space, we wouldn’t get to see and meet these consumers, so I do think physical retail is still very important for brands, even in this digital world we live in.
5. What have you learnt about e-commerce?
E-commerce has completely limitless potential. The opportunities through technology are endless, there is always something new to get excited about, and of course, e-commerce is the door between Aspinal of London and the entire world. I have learned that it is important to offer your consumers the same service online and in-store. This ensures the customer experience with the brand is consistent, the positive feeling our customers have walking out of the shop with an Aspinal bag they also have when their delivery arrives. This could be through complimentary gift wrapping, or personalisation, these are both services we offer in-store and online. This is along with the opportunity to speak to our customer services via chat who will be confident to make recommendations and advise on any queries, just like in store.
6. What do you think Aspinal of London could have done better in preparing to go digital?
When Aspinal first launched in 2001, the business was online only for the first 5 years – which at the time was so forward-thinking. It feels like we have come full circle, at the moment with our stores closed. Our e-commerce site is once again our only window to sell to customers. We’re lucky to be in a good place operationally to be able to continue the business, albeit in completely different circumstances.
7. You’re quite influential on social media, talk us through this?
Social platforms like Instagram and Tik Tok have shaped and changed communication between brands and consumers dramatically. It is incredible how fast you can spread information through sharing on social media what you love and what you do in life to your audience. I love sharing my passions, my designs, lifestyle, travel. It’s also part of the job, which adds a personal touch to the brand, a little bit of behind the scenes. Maybe I am more obsessed than I should be, but I do enjoy it. I use it as a learning tool for the transformational and fast changing virtual world of the fashion industry.
8. If you were given the opportunity to go back and speak to 21-year-old you, what would you say?
Honestly, I try not to think about what I should have done differently in the past, I always think instead of how I can improve and what I need to learn moving forward. But If I could go back, I would probably tell my 21-year-old self to continue to grow your passion for design, but also take time to learn about the financial side of business. Now where I am in my career, I see it is good to understand both sides. Knowledge is strength. You will be a stronger leader with knowledge not only in the creative side but running a business and building a team.
Mariya Dykalo
9. As a female leader, what has been the most significant barrier, if any in your career?
Growing up in the Ukraine, during the USSR period, this was a time when as far as my home life existed, a woman’s main role was to look after the family and the home. I knew what my passions were even when I was very young. I saw education as my door to the world I wanted my life to be. I told myself I must get the best education I possibly can to be able to achieve the life and career I wanted for myself, to overcome the barrier of the environment I was born into.
10. What is a key tip someone you admire has ever given you and why has it stuck with you?
My first would be from my mother, who told me from a very young age if you get a better education you will have a better life. This is why from a very young age I was so dedicated to studying my passion, I knew it would help me create a better life for myself when I am older, and my mother was right. Today, I always tell my children as long as you live, the more you learn. You should never stop learning no matter how busy you are in life. I remember when I was very young crossing a road with my mother, she told me education will change your life, I have never forgotten this.
I have a very curious mind; I naturally and genuinely always want to learn and try new things. I love meeting new people, hearing about their lives and why they love what they do. I always think about how I can learn from their stories and apply their advice to move forward in my own life, to be a better human, mother, designer and leader.
11. What is your go-to Aspinal of London piece and why?
If I had to choose one bag, it would be the Lion Transparent Trunk. It has such a strong identity. The Lion door knocker has become the animal symbol of the brand. It is inspired by the traditional English brass lion head door knockers, a recognisable symbol of British heritage. The Lion is also a famous symbol of London, I recently read an interesting fact that there are around 10,000 lion statues and structures scattered around the city, some are in recognisable locations and others hidden away. It’s so interesting to hear of the history.
12. How do you give back?
During this current crisis, we created a beautiful campaign called #AspinalHeroes, a campaign focused on showing our appreciation as a brand to the amazing workers at the forefront of what we are going through at the moment. Over a 4-week period, we asked our social media followers to nominate their #AspinalHeroes to receive a beautiful personalised gift from Aspinal as a thank you. The response to this campaign was incredible. To hear the stories about how kind, brave and selfless our amazing heroes are, then to receive the thank you’s, to hear how the gift from Aspinal brightened up their day, they were very heart-warming to receive. As well as the bigger campaigns, we also continuously support local charities throughout the year as much as we can.
13. How do you balance family and work? What’s it like working so closely with your husband?
Like for most women who work while raising a young family, it can be demanding and finding the balance isn’t always easy, especially during times when there is a lot of travelling or events. My family is the foundation to all my happiness and success in life. I love raising and educating my children, while also fulfilling my passion that I need to feel complete as a person. We do try to separate work from home life, and during our quality time at home I make sure I bring my children into my creative world by nurturing their creative talents and expression, teaching them to paint, draw, write songs, but most importantly just having lots of fun together.
Iain and I have worked together as husband and wife for the last 15 years and we wouldn’t change it for a second. As I am sure you can imagine it has its challenging moments, but also the most rewarding moments, creating memories throughout this journey that we will remember for our whole lives.
Mariya Dykalo
17. Have you ever felt discriminated against in the industry, especially working with a British brand and not being originally British?
To be honest, no I have not. Coming from Ukraine, I have always found the British people I have met to be very warm, loyal and open minded, taking on new ideas with a positive mindset. I have naturally been on learning curves throughout my career as we all have been, but I have tried to turn these lessons and challenges into opportunities to better myself. I am a naturally positive person who thrives off being around creative, collaborative people who I can learn from.
18. What other female brands inspire you and why?
I have always looked up to Victoria Beckham. She is a very inspiring woman. She has grown and transitioned throughout her career, from pop star to fashion icon, building an amazing brand plus balancing her family life with her 4 beautiful children and husband, I think she has created an incredible life for herself, completely following her dream.