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The Ugly Side of Fashion
Words Ebun Lufadeju
Ulrike MiekeThe fashion industry is notorious for the glamorous, fast, partying lifestyle. Have you ever wondered if fashion could ever have an ugly side? Ebun Lufadeju, Community Pharmacist gives us the full breakdown of the impact of drug use in the fashion industry and the best treatment options.
The 90s fashion alone was centred on going out to the nightclub, with the popular ‘heroin chic’ look being the definition of attractiveness. It’s a lifestyle that many young people look at and want to be part of. However, under all the glamour, the industry is plagued with immense pressure, long hours and stress. Essentially, the fashion industry is stylishly summed up with the quote ‘everything that glitters isn’t gold.’
Following the unexpected COVID-19 pandemic, the fashion industry has been plagued with uncertainty, stores have closed down for months and only now are some stores slowly opening back up. Uncertainty can lead to pressure and anxiety for those in the fashion industry, both of which are triggers for drug abuse and addiction.
The use of drugs and the misuse of prescription drugs can be overshadowed by the glitz and glam of the industry. It is easy to focus on the glamour, rather than the ugly side of the industry. However, as a Pharmacist and advocate for well-being, I think it is important that we speak about the parts of the fashion industry that are not so glamorous. Otherwise, if we don’t speak about these things, it may lead to further denial and in turn cause those who need treatment less likely to seek it.
What Causes Drug Addiction for People in the Fashion Industry?
Ulrike MiekeWe can blame drug abuse on the workload and long hours, but can this really be the only trigger? Famous fashion designer Calvin Klein once stated that “Addiction is not caused by stress on the job. It has more to do with your childhood and lots of other things.” Late fashion designer Alexander McQueen often spoke about the darker parts of his childhood, including watching his older sister being abused by her husband and he also suffered from abuse when he was a child.
It is easy for anyone to push traumatic childhood events to the bottom of the barrel and instead find other outlets to help them to cope. However, according to a study (Khoury et al., 2020.) evidence showed that there is a strong relationship between adverse childhood experiences and subsequent substance use. Additionally, emotional abuse was associated with cocaine use in the study. Drug addiction can be a way to deal with insomnia anxiety and depression, many people end up having to resort to sleeping pills, due to insomnia and can end up becoming addicted to them.
Therapy is advised for those wishing to be free from addiction, it is important that patients learn to deal with triggers. This is because if the root cause is not dealt with then it will be much easier for a patient to relapse. Since drugs are so accessible in the industry, it may be hard but patients are advised to avoid environments where they may be tempted to use drugs or the substance they are addicted to for some time.
What Role do Drugs Play in the Fashion Industry?
Alexander McQueen famously stated in his documentary that “Every fashion designer wants to create an illusion, create things that disturb and fascinate people.” It’s not shocking that people within the fashion industry use other coping mechanisms to deal with the enormous workload or fuel creativity. In particular, drug abuse is very common in the fashion industry. Now, with the digital media age; models and designers are getting much younger, fashion is becoming faster, plus, each day the use of drugs is becoming more accessible and normal.
It can be easy to blame drug abuse on the workload and long hours for those working in the industry. However, addiction is a disease that affects the brain and in turn, affects behaviour. Addiction to drugs is not just about the ‘hard drugs’ like heroin, cocaine, or ecstasy. People can also get addicted to alcohol, nicotine, gambling, sex, opioid medication and other legal substances.
Let’s look at modelling for example; some models avoid using drugs to help them get through the long days. However, others use them to cope with their busy schedules. Model Sophie Anderton, who previously suffered from cocaine addiction said that “drugs are so accessible within the industry, and it is very difficult to steer completely clear of them.”
Models must maintain a specific weight, otherwise, they risk the fear of being dropped by their agency. So, instead of reaching for a healthy, nutritious meal, models can often reach for a drug or substance that will produce a ‘high’, in order to keep them going.
The Long Term Effect of Drug Abuse
In 2003, famous fashion designer Calvin Klein admitted his issues with substance misuse. He stated that when he stopped attending meetings regularly, he suffered a setback. When people speak out about their drug addiction, it makes the situation more real to others – proving that they need to seek help.
The short-term effects are seemingly favourable to drug users, with initial feelings of euphoria. For example, cocaine (a popular drug of choice) sends high levels of dopamine into the brain, which causes the high. Other short-term effects of cocaine include happiness, anger, paranoia and personality changes. Cocaine gives people a boost of energy and decreases appetite, making it the drug of choice for those that want to keep their weight down.
The long-term effects are even worse and can range from:
Seizures
Heart disease/Stroke
Lung damage
Sexual dysfunction
HIV or Hepatitis (if injected)
Death (in overdose)
The more cocaine someone takes, the more cravings they have for it. This leads to tolerance, meaning that they will need a stronger dose to feel the same high – this, in turn, can lead to overdose. In drug addiction, the body becomes dependent on the drug, affecting the way you sleep and think. Those addicted to drugs are at higher risk of heart, stomach and lung problems.
Ulrike MiekeWhen a Prescription Becomes a Problem
Illicit drugs are not the only addiction problem in the fashion industry. Prescription drugs are also very likely to be abused. Prescription drug abuse happens when people take more of the prescribed medication, or use someone else’s medication. Opioid medication, such as oxycodone and codeine are used to treat pain. However, when misused they can produce a mild feeling of euphoria. Medication such as dexamphetamine and methylphenidate, which are originally used to treat ADHD, can be abused as they act as stimulants. Benzodiazepines, such as diazepam and alprazolam, popularly known as Xanax, are prescribed to treat anxiety and help to promote sleep. When abused, benzodiazepines produce a calming effect, making it a popular drug of choice for anyone feeling stressed out.
Although these medications are legal, when abused they come with unfavourable side effects. For example the side effects of opioid abuse include restlessness, muscle pain, insomnia, diarrhoea and vomiting to name a few.
Treatment Options
Counselling and therapy are the most common treatments for treating drug addiction. There are many programs and helplines, such as the Frank website, which is available to those seeking help.
According to the NHS, treatment for drug addiction involves a number of different treatments and strategies, which includes:
Talking therapies, such as cognitive behaviour therapy. This helps to see how one’s thoughts affect their behaviour – a very important part of treating addiction.
Treatment with medicines, such as methadone – those with opioid addictions will use this as it removes the need to buy street drugs.
Detoxification.
Self-help, through support groups, or friends and family.
My Thoughts
Fashion is more than art, it becomes part of life, especially for those working directly in the industry. Whilst it is part of life, it can quickly become part of death, as seen in the lives of Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent, Isabella Blow and Coco Chanel – to name a few.
I don’t think there is a ‘quick fix’ when it comes to drug abuse in the fashion industry. I think that there are certain attitudes and cultures that will be hard to wash away. Fashion is beautiful to look out, however, sometimes we may need to examine what’s really under the beauty, to find what’s lurking beneath. This means more people have to have those honest conversations, if the fashion industry will ever get over the stigma of drug use.