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Editor’s Letter
Atelier Zuhra, Femi OlubodeIn the space of 4 short months, the entire foundation of a multi-billion-dollar industry which has been built for centuries, has been completely displaced. Across the globe, many are rethinking old habits and considering slowing down an industry that is always on the move. The ‘modern industry,’ which began in the 19th century, was pioneered by Charles Frederick Worth. Worth, who founded the leading French dynasty, House of Worth in 1858, was the first designer to have a line he created, sewn into apparel. His innovative approach to fashion design earned him the title of ‘father of haute couture.’ This ‘new beginning’ paired with the looming after-effects of the global pandemic only leads us to question, just how secure was this system that has been built for so many years?
As retail doors opened for numerous businesses across England on June 15th, an increase in footfall was seen by up to 41.7 percent by the time it had hit midday that Monday. Retailers like Primark who have no e-commerce system in place (and no plans to do so either), join the many others needing to shift billions of pounds worth of unsold stock. On page 17, I speak with Isabella West, founder of leading online fashion rental platform Hirestreet, as she discusses why rental platforms are the answer for many retailers facing this problem and why sales and heavy discounting schemes are not.
Covergirl and founder of House of CB, Conna Walker has long understood the importance of having an online presence and was able to establish her multi-million-pound brand through Instagram. We talk about being a teenage businesswoman, and giving back on page 12.
In this issue, we also talk frontline staff, and we don’t mean doctors and nurses. On page 32, we speak with Prada’s European buyer and 2 client advisors who work for Saint Laurent and Dolce & Gabbana; the WOTC fashion frontline who deal with hundreds and hundreds of customers’ demands on a daily basis.
As we enter a new ‘normal’, I feel it’s important to note that without problems, there’s no real way to become anything significant. Leaders are usually born in difficult times. Business of Fashion’s Imran Amed is a prime example. The founder of the leading global fashion analytics and business intelligence platform forged a name for himself amid the crisis of the Great Recession. Having formed his business in January of 2007, the company found itself entering into the period of the Great Recession alongside many others, in the very same year. Despite being what was considered ‘the most severe economic recession in the US since the Great Depression of the 1930s’, 2008 was a pivotal year for Amed. What typically would have been viewed as a problem that couldn’t be solved, was instead seen as an opportunity to provide a solution.
As consumers, I think if this time has shown us anything, it’s largely that many of the pieces we thought we loved, adored and needed, we didn’t need after all. As many of our items have sat staring at us unworn and unused for the past 3 months or so, it has no doubt led to many self-reflective thoughts of ‘did I really need that?’. Many consumers have now become increasingly aware of the purchases they make which for retailers, doesn’t necessarily mean they want to spend less. It is now simply the job of the designers, brands and fashion houses to think less about their ever-changing fashion calendars and more about finding their brand purpose – because this is exactly what consumers want now.
As many of us wait eagerly in anticipation to see just what the industry will look like by the end of the year, talk less of 5 to 10 years from now, the truth is, it can look like whatever we want it to. It’s a perfect time to create new systems and order. The question is, who will step up and do just that?